Aurigny touchée, l’aventure ne faisait que commencer, après une navigation sur Guernesey avec Dominique et le passage par Aligande deux jours après le retour d’Aurigny il était temps de se préparer à prendre un peu de galon. L’idée est venue lorsque Pierre est passé un soir au bateau. Nous avons discuté du tour des ports de la Manche, une course qui réunit une centaine de bateaux chaque année avec des équipages prêts à en découdre, ambiance course et bon enfant, avec tout ce qui entoure une « régate », les départs et les bateaux parfois au touche touche, le chrono, la nav, les courants, le vent, le stress et des ports pleins à craquer à l’arrivée avec les manœuvres qui vont bien. En gros 140 miles sur 6 jours, 5 escales, des cailloux à enrouler et des bateaux à ne pas toucher mais à taquiner… la nuance est subtile, j’avoue que j’ai eu un frisson qui m’a parcouru la nuque en regardant le parcours… et puis on s’est regardé on a rigolé, c’était cuit, l’idée était trop tentante… cette année le tour partait de Dielette.
Comme on aime se lancer des petits challenges je lui ai répondu ok et on le fait en mode 0 déchet…Alors on a essayé… de faire notre bière, des bocaux, des pâtés, des conserves, des gâteaux, du pain, du jus, du cidre, et de s’avitailler exclusivement en vrac mis en bocaux… et on y est arrivé. Nous nous en sommes sortis avec 3 kg d’épluchures, un papier d’emballage de beurre, deux briques de lait, 2 litres de gasoil, 4 pansements et un rouleau de pq… note pour plus tard la prochaine fois on trouve une crèmerie, on apprend à godiller et on fait gaffe aux doigts prés du winch…
On y est arrivé, mais pas tout seul et c’est ce qui fait le piment de l’opération, car l’idée a trouvé de l’écho et avec un peu de détermination, une liste et un crayon de papier, nous avons contacté chacun des amis, potes, proches, on a secoué le cocotier tous azimut pour remplir le bateau et le résultat était au delà de nos attentes, on s’est retrouvé avec un bateau rempli à craquer de bonnes denrées et de pensées chaleureuses.
Car nous étions bien plus de quatre à bord, il y avait les pains de Jean Benoît et ses boules aux graines & chocolat qui vous calent le bide lorsqu’un coup de dalle vous prend par derrière, il y avait les pommes de terre, les courgettes, de l’ail et des oignons nouveaux, et le premier kilo de tomates de chez Stéphane Belin qui est maraicher bio dans le coin, un caisson de 12 litres de jus de pomme du Père Mahieu, et son détour la veille au soir pour nous amener une bouteille de calva de sa réserve perso, les sachets de chez Squizz qui produisent des emballages de Pompot réutilisables, la confiture de groseille maison de Dominique, ses brins de thym, de romarin et de laurier cueillis le matin même du départ, un bocal de Spiruline séchée qui provenait d’une ferme dans le calvados. Il y avait nos bouteilles de bière brune et blanche et les soirées de préparation qui vont avec, la mission pâtés de campagne et pâtés pimentés qui ne fait pas l’unanimité, mais comme avec pierre on les a préparés, ce sont les meilleurs ! Il y a le cidre de l’oncle de Pierro mis en bouteille par ses soins, et puis les préparations du chef cuistot, son chili vege à goût de viande sans viande, et son bœuf à la sauce guiness sans compter les petits plats préparés tout au long de la semainequi en a fait saliver plus d’un… sans oublier les deux poules pour leur douzaine d’œufs que Pauline a pochés pendant une étape.
Et puis il y a le souvenir du geste du marchand d’olives des pieux ce vendredi matin là. J’avais amené deux bocaux en verre à remplir et parlais de la course et des préparatifs. Il avait de la stature derrière son tablier et ses grands yeux bleu, il m’a fait parler du pourquoi et du comment. Il a rempli les bocaux avec patience en écoutant. Et puis il m’a tendu les bocaux d’un air solennel m’a regardé, « tu ne me dois rien, c’est pour l’idée, prends en soin, bonne nav et bon vent ».
On a dégusté ses olives en arrivant à Granville 3 jours plus tard avec une bière brune de notre cru, deux jours après un peu au nord de Jersey avant de déguster un plat de la cambuse de Pierro, j’ai sucé un noyau pour tenir la faim à l’écart lorsque nous passions le raz pour rallier Cherbourg et les dernières ont été consommées en face de Port Racine lorsque nous attendions la renverse pour redescendre sur Dielette. Elles ont accompagné nos plats, nos salades et ont été partagées avec les copains sur les pontons.
Alors ce tour c’était comment ? Une merveille, un package sauce barbecue qui vous cuit les joues, vous fait transpirer à l’avant pour balancer le spi, vous met la pression en passant prés des cailloux ou lorsqu’on prend un départ babord sur la ligne et que ça passe… enfin ça, c’est jamais certain… les manœuvres avec 15 bateaux à couplent, la fatigue, le plaisir de passer devant Bibiche au sud de Jersey, d’entendre Denis qui me demande de reprendre la barre parce que Marwane et Pierre savent mieux y faire, de voir les copains derrières, devant, au loin parfois, de tenir le cap pour enrouler cette foutu cardinale et la laisser sur bâbord, de prendre une veine de courant, de le bouler à la bonne heure et de faire un trait qui nous plait bien sur la carte, de voir que ça avance, que le bateaux et l’équipage tient, de se dire que c’est quand même incroyables d’être là… c’est aussi apprendre à rebrousser chemin, car aller couteau entre les dents ont y perd des copains. De dire merci au Raz Blanchard parce que ce soir là en sortant du mouillage de port Racine, la mer était belle et le raz était serein, il n’y avait pas de vagues là où les fonds soulèvent souvent une mer dangereuse et cassante, on est passé à côté de la plate, du phare de Goury et de la Foraine, tout était calme, le vent établit, le bateau filait et la nuit approchait doucement.
Ce soir là c’était le dernier soir du tour des ports et je n’avais pas envie de rentrer, j’avais envie de rester sur l’eau, d’apprécier ses couleurs et son silence, de sentir le bateau filer sous nos pieds, de faire le point à la carte, de se dire qu’en face il y avait une île à atteindre. J’avais envie de tout mais surtout de rester en mer, de prolonger l’instant. C’était étrange de se sentir loin, loin de vouloir rentrer un jour, parce qu’ici en mer après une semaine, on apprend aussi à s’y sentir bien .. alors on est rentré doucement, on a réduit la toile et à minuit nous passions l’entrée de dielette à la voile le coeur gros, les yeux remplis d’envies incroyables et de plaisir en mer prochain…
Credit Photo : Laurent Travert
Merci Romain pour ces petits récits qui font vivre Oanig et réveillent les moments que nous avons partagés avec ce bateau, et toutes les premières fois : l’arrivée à Guernesey contre le courant, le Raz Blanchard avec ou sans mer, le spi, les nuits quand on est seul ou seule et que tout le monde dort.. Les discussions de pontons aussi.
Merci de l’avoir rendu si beau et de naviguer. à bientôt. Isabel et Hervé
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